Yes you CAN cut glass in a circle!

I wish I could do some kind of animation feature on my blog.  Because if I could, you'd definitely see a lot of running through fields in slow motion, long knowing glances across a crowded room, and sucking on the end of a spaghetti strand -- because my new gadget is not just a tool, it's TRUE LOVE!!

With my new tool I cut now cut circles of glass and mirrors! 

WOO HOO!!

Maybe you picture a glass cutter as something like this.

But mine came in a box like this.  It says "Miller Falls Tools....Circular Glass Cutter".  I bought it through a nearby online auction service.  As soon as I saw the listing, I knew I had to have it!  I didn't even know such a thing existed!  I had to go up to $16 (big bucks for me!) but I eventually won out.

My pictures didn't turn out the best, but using a scrap piece of glass I'll see if I can demonstrate how I used it -- it had no instructions of course. 

Here's the tool. The online pictures made it appear large, but it's quite small.  You can cut circles up to 12". The arm is adjustable and marked for getting just the size you want. 

I believe the main part is supposed to be a suction cup, but since my piece is quite old and no longer held, I simply held it firm with my hand.

At the end of the arm is the part that holds the blade.  Much like a compass, you simply grab hold of that and run it around in a circle.

I am typically not good at cutting glass, but so far this has worked perfectly for me everytime.

If it works correctly you will hear a continuous, slightly irritating scratching noise.  Remember, that's good!

And you should see a complete circle scored into the glass (not cut through).  

Then, taking the standard glass cutter, whack away  tap on the underside of the glass directly on the score marks. It will crack the glass top to bottom -- do this all around the circle.

Now you have a cut circle.  But it still won't just pop out, the outer edges need to be removed.  For me (the inept glass cutter), it's easiest just to use my dremel with the glass cutting tip to cut little lines from the circle to the edges. 

You'll end up with a circle and some glass scraps.  So if using a bigger piece of glass, first cut off any section you may want to save for later. 

And there's your circle of glass or mirror. 

 Not perfect, but not bad!

And if you're wondering "But Midge, how did you cut the circles for your latest projects?  They seem larger than 12"."  Well, yes.  I got around that by inserting a different rod into the hole and then duct taped it to the regular arm.  Worked just fine.

And I know that what you REALLY want to know is "Where can I get one of these things?" ....Well, I'm sorry to say I don't know.  I don't think they're sold in your basic Home Depot or Walmart.  You'll probably have to do a little digging on the computer.  However, you might try at a stained glass store, some of my reading sounding like some do carry them.  

Anyway, I've got to go. So much junk, so little time. And lately, it seems like I'm just going in circles. ;)

Midge

Tool School Tuesday: "Off With Their Heads!"

I LOVE REPURPOSING!!  Such a creative endeavor.  And it comes with its own unique set of successes...and problems.  Unfortunately, there's no Junker's manual explaining how to deal with problems when they do arise (hmmm .... note to self).  So.... I thought I'd share a recent problem that I went through.

A current project of mine requires me to separate these 2 pieces of wood.  Usually they'd likely be glued together which means they may easily come apart, or they may bust apart.  However,  these pieces had several large screws holding them together.  YAY!  All I have to do is remove the screws, right? RIGHT?

Well, these screws didn't want to come out.  So, instead of becoming upset, insisting I had to get them out, chasing after screwdriver upon screwdriver, squirting boatloads of oozy stuff that would make no difference, did I mention getting upset?,  I decided to surrender early on and take a different approach.  I didn't need the screws, all I needed was to be able to separate the boards. If they butted together, I could possibly run a sawzall between to cut the screws.  But, as you can see in the picture, the one piece was setting inside the other.  SOOOO...  

If the HEADS of the screws were off, the boards could be separated.  They couldn't easily be cut off, but they could be DRILLED off.  There are 3 different widths of a screw: the shaft, the top of the head, the bottom of the head.  Choose a drill bit slightly wider than the bottom of the head.  Don't know how big that is? -- Guess.   

Then drill away!  You want to have just the shaft remaining in place but the head gone.

Just an extra tip:  You may want to keep a hair dryer handy for blowing out the piling up dust.  Oh, sure, you could simply blow on it.  But do you really want to blow metal dust into your eye?

Ta Da!  Success!  Okay, I still had to work it a bit and do some tapping, but I could not have done that with the screws as they were.  So, what exactly am I working on?  I can't tell yet (and if you already can guess...shhh...it'll be our little secret), but I'm on my way.  

So, if you encounter a problem, you can probably find a solution. You just have to keep your head about you -- so to speak.  :) 

Midge 

How's It Hanging?

This "Tool School" Tuesday post it inspired by Elaine over at Love2Junk. She left a comment on one of my posts about the best way to attach a door headboard. I got to thinking about how challenging it can be sometimes to hang projects -- especially the big, heavy ones. So, Elaine, I'm not sure if this will help for your particular piece, but I thought I'd share a few different ways in which I've attached/hung some past projects.

#1. Well, I do have to say that my favorite of all methods is whenever possible to screw directly through the front of the piece right into a stud in the wall. This is quick, easy, and very secure. Unfortunately, you will leave marks in your piece, but sometimes I don't mind or it can/will be hidden.

#2. If I don't want to mess with the front, my next thought is usually key holes placed on the back of the piece. They will give you a very secure hold using nails in the wall. There is a special Dremel attachment for making them, but my local store did not carry it so I have a similar program.
I first drill a hole maybe 1.5-2" from top of piece. The drill bit should be slightly bigger than the Dremel bit (keep reading!).

The depth depends on your item, you just don't want it too shallow -- 1/4" is probably okay.

This is the Dremel bit (sorry for the lousy photos, closeup shots never seem to turn out for me -- even with my new camera! What? I didn't tell you about my new camera? We'll talk later.)
It's a round disc looking thing with zig-zag edging all around -- like a tiny little saw blade. You will need a drill bit slighly larger than the stem.

You need to create a canal of sorts. Probably a better tool for this, but I just drill a few holes close together, drill through the "walls", and run the bit back and forth a few times.

Not the most professional looking, but it does the trick. This "canal" should be about the same depth as the hole and should be on the top side of hole.

Now, using that Dremel (I think that bit I described earlier is in the engraving category), place in bottom of hole, turn it on, and travel up the canal. Run it back and forth a few times to create a nice underground slot. The idea is that a NAIL head fits into the hole and slides into the slot.

#3. Another one of my favorite methods of hanging, especially with something quite heavy.

I used it for hanging this (which is heavier than it looks!).

Sorry no photo for the first step, but you need a board that is almost as wide across as your item. The board should be shallow -- like 3/4". The width doesn't matter as much, but should be at least 4" -- so a 1x6 or 1x 8 is great for this. Cut this board in half long way (2 long pieces when done), using a table saw on a 45 degree angle.

One of the halves will be mounted on the top part of the item and the other on the wall. You want to mount it to the wall with screws into studs.

The placement might be a little tricky, so plan on some measuring and figuring. And you want to make sure that the cut is on the top, with the shorter side touching the wall.

The board you attached to your piece should have the cut edge down, with the shorter side touching the piece. The pieces will then "nest" together.

You just place the item's board into the wall board and it holds amazingly well. Just get it on the board and you can slide it where you need it (of course, you don't want the wall board to show!).

#4. Here's something I've, done once or twice.

I had this piano shelf that I certainly couldn't and wouldn't go through the front. And there was not a back area to use. But.....

There was a cavity area in the back.

So I attached to the wall a board approximately the size of that gap. Then I just slipped the piece onto it.

To secure it, I screwed down through the top (which I didn't mind as much) into that piece of wall-mounted lumber.

#5. One last method.

This 4' x 4' window is super, super heavy! And I hope you can see in the photo, is resting on two big nails/screws. The top is secured with some rope we attached and secured from above. I'm not saying to do things EXACTLY like that, but similarly...

A very heavy piece should be supported from underneath, simple L brackets can usually do the trick.

You can simply mount bracket to wall, place piece on top, and secure with screw through holes.

If you don't care for that to show, simply decide where you want it to go and first attach one arm to wall, stem upward, then place item on it, then secure with screws from below. Use this same technique to secure from the sides or from the top, too, if needed. If you plan carefully you can place brackets so they will barely show, but they give a very secure hold.

I hope these ideas were helpful and clear enough to understand. I basically just wanted to give an overview of a few ideas that have worked for ME (as opposed to them being the best). There are probably a lot more out there, (but mine, of course, required they be done "on the cheap".)

So....did we ever answer the question...How IS it hanging?

Midge

Tool School Tuesday -- Confession Time!

Okay, so I have a confession to make (actually two).
Anyone who's read even a little of my blog quickly learns how much I LOVE using my tools. But the truth, I realized the other day, is that I don't really love using my tools.
Don't get my wrong, I don't dislike using my tools either. It's just that many people think I'm a "hands" person. You know, one of those people who learns best by doing something with their hands, or who is always "tickering", or dreams of retiring so they can spends their days knitting or whittling. THAT'S NOT ME.
Truth by told, I'm more of a "word" and "idea" person. I love learning, I love the sound of words, and I LOVE thinking up fresh ideas -- whether it be business ideas, house remodeling, event activities, etc., or (you guessed it) junk projects. But what good is it to have ideas if you do not have the means to make them a reality. And THAT'S where the tools come into play. I don't have a problem learning and trying new things. And having the ability to use my tools, opens up a whole world of possibilities for home and junk projects -- without having to ask someone for help, or wait to get it done, or pay someone to do it. I can just do it! -- and just the way I want it done too. So maybe you could say I love having the ABILITY to use my tools.
The reason I'm telling you this is because I don't want anyone to feel that they can't learn to use their tools because they're not a "hands" person. Anyone can learn to use tools! Desire is the number one prerequisite.
Which leads me to confession number 2:
Despite wanting to be more disciplined about posting my Tool School Tuesdays each week, I had nothing planned for today. So I am making this up as I go -- I'm winging it! And here's what I got for you:
I would love to share with you anything I've learned through my years of working with tools. So I welcome any questions you might have. They could be about home improvement/repair, tool use, or whatever. Or if you have a certain topic you would like me to post about, I would welcome your suggestions. Free feel to ask/suggest away in your comments. I certainly don't know everything (I learned in my own way what works best for me), but if I can be of help to anyone in anyway, I say "bring it on!"

That's what I got, fire away!
Midge

P.S. Please don't ask any questions about welding -- also if you'd read even a little of my posts, you would've quickly learned that I don't yet know how to weld but want to very much -- just waiting to get me a welder (the machine, not the person).

Tool School Tuesday -- Sawzall

I decided it was time to resume Tool School Tuesday. And what better way than with one of my favorite tools -- the reciprocating saw, sometimes referred to as a tiger or saber saw, but usually just called the sawzall. And it's called THAT because that is exactly what is does, it SAWS ALL! That's why I love it! And it's very easy to handle. You hug it using two hands with your right hand in the back operating the trigger and your left hand holding the front -- kind of like holding a rifle (I imagine). This gives you a lot of control, and the weight is distributed (unlike the heavy saws hanging at the end of your arm.) It also gives you a lot more safety as your hands are holding the barrel and don't go near the blade.
The reason it's official name is the reciprocating saw is because that's how the blade works, it reciprocates (back and forth) instead of going around like many saws. It's kinda like the action of cutting bread, actually that's EXACTLY what it's like -- a glorified electric carving knife. Because of this it can accommodate a long narrow blade that can bend and curve somewhat. This lets you get into many places you normally can't with your basic arsenal of saws.
The blades are also VERY easy to change, something that I can't say about other saws (okay, I confess, I don't even know how to change other saw blades, I always have my husband do it, OUCH!, that hurt to say). So you could be cutting some wood and then easily switch blades and cut some metal. The sawzall can easily handle both. Chances are you probably won't run out and buy one of these as it is a bit pricey and you probably will have little opportunity to use it. It is used mainly in remodeling work for demolition and that's how I came to get and use ours. But it does come in handy on occasions when you just can't do the job the commonplace ways. And it's so fun! It is powerful and it can bounce around the piece you're cutting up (especially if the piece is smaller like paneling), so don't plan on precision work with it. But those times you can use it, you sure are glad you have it.
Now go have some fun with your power tools!

Midge

Just a little hint on when you might use this (and what I might be posting soon), the other day I was dismantling a piano. Some sections needed to come apart and I couldn't get to certain places with a conventional saw or, for instance, as I cut the back away from the front I didn't want to use a circular saw. It was already a little dicey with a lot of reaching so I pulled out the sawzall instead -- viola! It cut easily, with a decent cut, and not at all scary. OOOO, I love the sawzall!

Hammer Time!

Well it's actually Wednesday, but it's time once again for Tool School Tuesday! (I'm going to blame it on the Labor Day weekend throwing my days off, yeah, that's it.)



We're still covering some basic stuff. So today -- IT'S HAMMER TIME! (However, sorry to disappoint but there will be no crazy pants, dancing, or "Can't touch this"es).

Which hammer do you choose? What size? What color? Which weight? What about the handle? The head? The claw?

Most of that stuff doesn't really matter. Here's what matters: Use the HEAVIEST hammer you can comfortably use. A grip on the handle is nice but not required. But the important thing is: Use the HEAVIEST hammer you can comfortably use. Contrary to popular belief, you aren't doing the work, the hammer is and the heavier hammer will give you better results.

You know the saying "It's all in the wrist"? -- IT'S TRUE! Your arm is not pushing the hammer (at least it shouldn't be), it's more about gravity and physics (neither of which I know much). But I do know this -- the wrist is the most important pivot point. So hold the hammer at the very bottom of the handle and hold it approx. 90 degrees to your forearm. And again your elbow makes a pivot point, so your forearm should be 90 degrees to your upper arm. In other words, the hammer will be parallel to your upper arm. NOW you're ready to swing. This gives you the biggest bang for your buck. If you're tapping in tacks, you might want to use just the wrist action (but DO use it).

If swinging's not your problem but just using those tiny little nails, here's a tip: old school says to use a comb to hold a nail, but I like to use a thick piece paper. Just poke the nail through the paper first. Once the nail's securely (but not completely) in place, just pull the paper away.

Another tip for holding a small nail would be to hold it with a needle nose pliers until it's securely in place. With either method it might be helpful to use a big nail to first whack a dent in the target spot to give the little nail a nice starting place.

If you want to improve your hammer skills, it's just like anything else -- it's just takes some time and practice. An easy, low-danger way is by first practicing without actual nails. Make some targets on wood, hammer away, and when you feel ready, add some nails. (Sorry if I've offended anyone, I've just never liked fig newtons!)

In the world of junking you're just as likely to need to remove nails as you are to put them in. One time honored helpful hint is to place a block of wood under the hammer (but much closer to the nail than in the photo) before prying up the nail, giving you much better leverage. This also will protect the wood from getting gouged in the nail removal process.

For me, I find it easier to just bend the hammer sideways. Just continue to grip nail as close to wood as possible and bend the hammer down off to the side, and continue and attack from different angles if necessary.

Until next week --

Be cool, use a tool

Midge

P.S. These tips are for nailing into "soft" wood like pine which is the basic wood of plywood, 2x4's, etc (can you poke your fingernail into the wood? if so, it's soft). If you are using oak or other hard wood, you must drill a starter hole first before you nail anything into it.